
Brandon Ocasio (Raphael), Kashayna Johnson (Letitia), and Quinn M. Johnson (Jason). Photo by Margot Schulman.
What is your ideal sandwich? A nostalgic classic like PB&J or pastrami on rye? An elevated farm-to-table grilled cheese on fresh crusty bread? Artisanal chicken breast with arugula and Aioli? Eat well before seeing “Clyde’s” at Studio Theatre or else the delicious descriptions and scents of fresh ingredients will have your stomach growling within the first fifteen minutes. Entirely set in the kitchen of a truckstop sandwich joint, this slice-of-life comedy depicts the everyday dramas of its owner and staff, all of who are trying to make ends meet after time in prison. The latest play from two-time Pulitzer-Prize-winner Lynn Nottage, “Clyde’s” is the most-produced play nationally of the 22/23 season (excluding Shakespeare and “A Christmas Carol” productions). In the hands of a top-notch cast and creative team directed by Candis C. Jones, it’s obvious why this play has captured hearts across the country; “Clyde’s” at Studio Theatre is thought-provoking, subtle, and charming.
…top-notch cast and creative team directed by Candis C. Jones…thought-provoking, subtle, and charming.
Restaurant owner Clyde (Dee Dee Batteast) has all the warmth and compassion of a prison warden. Make a sandwich wrong and lose your pay. Come too late and be reminded how replaceable you are. When she walks in, beer bottle in hand, the kitchen staff scramble to turn off the radio and avoid her ire. She knows her employees have no other employment prospects with felonies on their records, and she ruthlessly exploits that. But, Clyde is also a mystery that’s never quite unraveled. We never learn the full story of how she ended up behind bars or how she climbed her way to where she is now. In comparison, her employees are open books. Montrellous (Lamont Thompson) is a wise and kind sandwich-making genius. Letitia (Kashayna Johnson) is a young mother supporting her disabled daughter. Rafael (Brandon Ocasio) is an earnestly love-struck charmer, and Jason (Quinn M. Johnson) is the new hire whose gang past is written in the Nazi tattoos across his face.
Beyond the menu, the kitchen crew take turns attempting to craft the best sandwich. Montrellous guides the group, rattling off new recipes that draw appreciative groans for their surprise ingredients—like fennel and fresh dill, and crafting sandwiches so sublime, the others race for a bite. Jason’s first skeptical suggestion, Philly cheesesteak with Swiss, draws groans for its limited imagination. But as he finds community in the kitchen, his efforts to craft a great sandwich grow more and more earnest. After all, it’s about more than the literal sandwich; it’s about learning to dream, to give, and to experience and share joy. Clyde refuses to try even a bite.
The fast-paced industrial kitchen of “Clyde’s” has seen better days. Peeling plaster, stained linoleum, and rusting appliances are as roughed up and run down as its occupants. Junghyun Georgia Lee’s set includes rolling stainless steel counters where condiments are prepped, veggies diced, and many sandwiches assembled and sampled. Sensory consultants Miriam Songster and Kate McLean bring the food to life with scents wafting through the audience, like the fresh thyme Montrellous brings from his garden. Furthermore, Ben’s Chili Bowl partnered with Studio Theatre as the official “sandwich consultant,” providing education on kitchen skills including knife safety to the cast and creative team—and your ticket stub will get you a 15% discount.
Beneath the stained aprons, Danielle Preston’s costume design reflects the characters’ individuality. Montrellous always wears a skull cap, adding to the impression he might be some sort of diner messiah. Letitia sports trendy, youthful outfits, while Rafael wears tank tops that prove he’d rather show off muscles than protect himself from oil splatter from the industrial fryer. Clyde, the only one to never don an apron, wears tight and flashy outfits with heels and cleavage intimidating enough to give plausibility to the rumor that she did her time for a dominatrix scene gone wrong.
Is Clyde mean or just in charge? Is her cruelty personal or a survival mechanism? In just a hundred minutes, “Clyde’s” touches timely issues like criminal justice, healthcare costs, drug use, and homelessness. With a gentle but steady pace, Nottage keeps you guessing where the story is going, ready with a joke whenever the tension grows unbearable. Nuanced and layered—just like an ideal sandwich—“Clyde’s” is simple on its face but after savoring the last bite, you’ll want to order it again.
Running time: One hour and 40 minutes without an intermission.
Advisory: Age 12+.
“Clyde’s” runs through April 9, 2023 at Studio Theatre, 1501 14th Street NW, Washington, DC 20005. For more information and tickets, call the Box Office at 202.332.3300, Tuesday – Thursday, Noon – 6:00pm (until 6:30pm when performance scheduled); Friday, Noon – 6:00pm (until 7:00pm when performance scheduled); Saturday, Noon – 7:00pm (performance days only); Sunday, Noon – 6:00pm (performance days only) or go online. Masks are recommended.